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Automatic Door Not Opening? Causes and What to Check First

An automatic door that refuses to open is more than an annoyance. It stops customers, staff and deliveries getting in, and on a shop or surgery it can breach fire and disability access rules within hours. The good news is that most faults come from a short list of causes, and several of them you can check in minutes without any tools.

Published 21 September 2026

Start with the simple checks

Before assuming the operator has failed, rule out the obvious. In our experience across Stone, Stafford, Stoke and the surrounding area, roughly a third of no-open callouts turn out to be something the site could have reset themselves.

Look for the mode selector first. Almost every automatic sliding or swing door has a key switch or a small touch panel near the door, usually with settings such as Auto, Open, Exit Only, Locked and Off. Cleaners, night staff or a keyholder locking up often leave it on Locked or Exit Only without realising. Turn it back to Auto and wait 10 to 15 seconds for the operator to run its self-test.

Sensor problems are the most common cause

Most automatic doors open on an activation sensor mounted above the door and close only when a separate safety sensor or beam says the way is clear. When either fails, the door either sits shut or opens briefly and refuses to reopen. Low winter sun on a south-facing entrance, heavy rain blowing into the sensor field, or a new floor with a very glossy or very dark finish can all stop a sensor detecting people reliably.

A useful test is to wave your hand directly under the sensor from around 30 to 50 centimetres. If the door opens from close range but not from a normal walking approach, the detection field has shrunk or the sensor has been knocked out of alignment. This is a common result of a ladder or a shopfitter's trolley catching the header. Realignment and a sensitivity adjustment is usually a short visit rather than a replacement, and sensors themselves typically cost somewhere between £150 and £400 depending on the type and brand.

Mechanical and operator faults

If the door hums, judders or moves a few centimetres and stops, the problem is usually mechanical rather than electrical. On sliding doors the culprits are worn carriage wheels, a stretched or snapped drive belt, or debris in the floor guide track. On swing doors it is more often a failed arm linkage or a motor gearbox that has worn through after many years of service.

Operators from the main manufacturers are designed for hundreds of thousands of cycles, but a busy retail or pharmacy entrance in the Potteries can hit that within seven to ten years. When the control board or motor fails outright, the decision comes down to age and parts availability. A new operator on an existing set of doors usually lands somewhere in the region of £1,200 to £3,000 fitted, depending on door type and weight, whereas a belt, wheel set or microswitch is often a small fraction of that.

What not to do while you wait

Do not prop or wedge the door in the open position with the operator still powered. Many doors will try to close against the wedge and burn out the motor or shear the drive components, turning a minor repair into a major one. If you need the entrance usable, switch the operator off at the isolator and open the leaves by hand, or use the manual release if one is fitted.

Also avoid taking the header cover off and adjusting potentiometers or dip switches yourself. Modern operators need to be set up with their safety functions checked against BS EN 16005, and an incorrectly set door can close on a person with real force. Your insurer and, for premises open to the public, the Equality Act both expect the entrance to be either working safely or clearly managed while it is out of action.

When to call an engineer

If the simple checks have not brought the door back, or it is failing intermittently, it is worth booking a fault-find rather than repeatedly resetting it. Intermittent faults are almost always a sensor or a control board on its way out, and each reset is borrowed time. A typical fault-finding visit in the Stone and Staffordshire area takes 45 minutes to an hour and a half, and a good engineer will carry common belts, wheels and sensors so that a first-visit fix is possible more often than not.

When you call, have a few details ready: the make on the operator cover if you can see it, whether the door is sliding, swing or folding, what the status light is doing, and when it last worked normally. That information alone often tells us whether to bring a specific part.

Questions

Common questions, answered

Why does my automatic door open on its own but not when I approach?

This usually points to sensor interference rather than a fault in the door itself. Rain, moving foliage, reflective flooring or a heater blowing near the sensor field can trigger false activations, while a misaligned or dirty sensor fails to see people. Cleaning the lens and having the field realigned normally resolves it.

How much does it cost to fix an automatic door that will not open?

It depends entirely on the cause. A reset, sensor clean or realignment is at the low end, a replacement sensor or belt sits in the low hundreds including labour, and a failed operator on an older door can run into four figures. An honest engineer should give you the diagnosis and a price before any major work starts.

How often should an automatic door be serviced to prevent this?

BS EN 16005 recommends a documented service at least once a year for most public entrances, and twice a year on high-traffic doors such as supermarkets and hospitals. Regular servicing catches worn wheels, stretched belts and drifting sensors before they leave the door shut on a busy morning.

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